Day 3 - Knysna to East London (606km)

Another early morning run today - very pittoresque indeed. Ran half of the Featherbed trail (that what I did in July) and back again across the famous choo-choo train tracks that disect and bisect the saltwater lagoon. I stupidly left my camera in the tent; the view really is quite something from the Heads. Packed the tent and just before hitting the road I checked the oil & water situation for the first time. The oil was practically bone dry save for some sandy tar stuck to the bottom of the dipstick. Filled the oil again and decided to keep something of a more regular eye on her status. As for the water we haven't lost a teaspoon since leaving Stellies. Recently my friendly local "for you, good price" mechanic Hassim replaced the waterpump, cambelt driving it and fluid as she was spitting out coolant through the expansion tank overflow pipe. Following this rather costly exercise she was still overheating to an extent. We took a look at the old waterpump - perfect condition - so that wasn't the issue then. After much head scratching Hassim suggested I change the pressure cap (basically, a fancy bung) on the water (expansion) tank as a last shot, as the rubber on the existing one was all chewed up. One R45 pressure cap later, problem solved. Ah well, live and learn. The simplest, most glaringly obvious solution is typically the correct one, in all aspects of life. Best not to flatter oneself with the notion that your case will be an exceptional one. At least the timing belt is changed now (well due) and he threw on a fan belt for free.

The mercury hit around 35C inside the cockpit en route. Doesn't make for the easiest driving conditions.

So with a clean bill of health we set off from Knysna in more muggy heat. Roads were a bit quieter today and consequently I was averaging a bit more per hour. After a number of consecutive hours of steady 3500RPM whining in top (4th) gear, I pulled into Humansdorp at around midday to give my ears a break and refuel. Before pulling back onto the deathly N2 I noticed my indicators didn't tick tock when I signalled to pull out. So spun around and back to the garage, jumped out - only one of the four indicators worked. Luckily I was parked adjacent the only motor spares store for 100km around, one which would close in 20 mins for the rest of the weekend. What timing! R4 and 4 fuses later I had 3 working indicators of 4. So I quickly prised open the rear-light hatch to replaced the last blown bulb before Midas closed. The filament seemed fine but the bulb refused to stay in its socket. One big lump of white Blu-Tack later the bulb was stuck more soundly than ever before. Four working indicators and I was back on the road.

Some say you can fix anything with Duck Tape and cable ties. In an old bakkie, a lump of Blu Tack really is the only true saviour.

Passing through industrial and industrious Port Elizabeth I pulled into landmark Greenacres Mall for an hour. A silly move considering it's the largest mall in the Eastern Cape and twas the Saturday before Christmas and yesterday was payday. Silly silly move. Anyway I treated myself to an early Christmas pressie of a stereo sound system for Betty as I was getting a little hoarse and depressed singing to myself over the revs for entertainment sake. It should also help me stay awake a little easier in the heat. The mega sound system comprises a dinky MP3 player (yes! POC has gone digital!) and a pair of dinky but surprisingly powerful Shox stereo speakers. Dinky is the word here.

State-of-the-art stereo sound system. Note the speakers on the dash and portable digital media player clipped to shorts. The eagle-eyed reader will spot the luxurious legroom, afforded by the "one position fits all" bench seat.

Much dilly dallying and not much ground gained. Outside of PE lies possibly SA's finest Padstal and pieshop, Nanaga. Incredible pies, really, that you can watch the locals handcraft in the kitchen behind the counter. Went, of course, straight for the muttoncurry. I couldn't enjoy my pepper steak pie dessert as I had a crampy tummy after eating that bad Swellendam biltong all day long and nothing else. Threw away the Adam's Apple that was a brown bag of old meat to avoid any more temptation.

Culinary treats at Nanaga Farmstall. Click on the top picture for a high res image, available for download and use as your Desktop Background.

It got dusky early tonight, around 1700ish, thanks to a blanket of purple clouds that drew the sky closed. A frighteningly majestic lightening storm ensued at around 1800 and entertained me all the way through to East London, 2.5hrs later. My what cracking lightening! The rain was unwelcome however as I don't have the fullest confidence in my brakes and the windscreen was uncharacteristically greasy for some reason. Vision seemed to be better off without the wipers. Arrived in the dark at Blarney House B&B just in time for a small braai - chicken, roast spuds, carrots and pot bread. Lovely. Plenty of Windhoek Draughts (the new bottled lager from Windhoek, certainly superior to any gassy SAB beers) were knocked back as the McColes and I caught up on our 16-odd years amiss.